Denissenko, Petr, Didenkulova, I., Pelinovskiĭ, E. N. and Pearson, Jonathan M. (2011) Influence of the nonlinearity on statistical characteristics of long wave runup. Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, Vol.18 (No.6). pp. 967-975. doi:10.5194/npg-18-967-2011

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Abstract

Runup of long irregular waves on a plane beach is studied experimentally in the water flume at the University of Warwick. Statistics of wave runup (displacement and velocity of the moving shoreline and their extreme values) is analyzed for the incident wave field with the narrow band spectrum for different amplitudes of incident waves (different values of the breaking parameter Brσ). It is shown experimentally that the distribution of the shoreline velocity does not depend on Brσ and coincides with the distribution of the vertical velocity in the incident wave field as it is predicted in the statistical theory of nonlinear long wave runup. Statistics of runup amplitudes shows the same behavior as that of the incident wave amplitudes. However, the distribution of the wave runup on a beach differs from the statistics of the incident wave elevation. The mean sea level at the coast rises with an increase in Brσ causing wave set-up on a beach, which agrees with the theoretical predictions. At the same time values of skewness and kurtosis for wave runup are similar to those for the incident wave field and they might be used for the forecast of sea floods at the coast.

Item Type:	Journal Article
Subjects:	Q Science > QA Mathematics
Divisions:	Faculty of Science, Engineering and Medicine > Engineering > Engineering
Library of Congress Subject Headings (LCSH):	Water waves -- Statistical methods
Journal or Publication Title:	Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics
Publisher:	Copernicus GmbH
ISSN:	1023-5809
Official Date:	2011
Dates:	Date Event 2011 Published
Volume:	Vol.18
Number:	No.6
Page Range:	pp. 967-975
DOI:	10.5194/npg-18-967-2011
Status:	Peer Reviewed
Publication Status:	Published
Access rights to Published version:	Restricted or Subscription Access
Funder:	Estonia. Haridus- ja Teadusministeerium [The Ministry of Education and Science], Estonian Science Foundation (ESF), Rossiĭskiĭ fond fundamentalʹnykh issledovaniĭ [Russian Foundation for Basic Research] (RFBR), Russia (Federation)
Grant number:	SF0140007s11 (HT), 8870 (ESF), 11-05-00216 (RFFI), 11-02-00483 (RFFI), 11-05-92002 (RFFI), 11-05-97006 (RFFI), MK-1440.2012.5 (Russia), MK-4378.2011.5 (Russia)

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